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If you are working with an existing room, give serious consideration to replacing the door. The ideal door is probably an insulated steel or fiberglass door of the type used between an uninsulated garage and a house. These doors generally have good insulation (though the exact R-factors are hard to come by), and you want as high an R-factor on your door as possible. Solid wood core doors offer limited R protection, and you certainly don't want a hollow door. The key factor is insulation inside the door itself.
It is easiest to buy a door already in its frame. You'll probably want the smallest width available without special order (because special order sizes are generally much higher priced). If you insist on a glass door or one with a glass insert, just be sure you get the most insulated option you can find, as you will definitely suffer heat exchange through the glass.
Here's where planning comes in. You need to decide if the door is to open left or right and to open in or out. In any case, make sure you have room and that it isn't going to bump into a sloped ceiling or produce an awkward entrance. Weather-strip it well (and check the seal annually). Go into the room, shut the door, turn out the light, and have someone shine a flashlight under and all around the door to check for leaks.
If you can't avoid a less insulated solid door for any reason, consider adding a panel of foam thermal insulation on the inside. You'll probably have to glue it in place, and you may or may not be able to paint it or otherwise cover it up. Ugly, but useful.
And now, let's continue with Step 5: Frame an opening for the cooler.
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